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Inside Ruben Toledo’s Universe:
Art, Design, and His Collaboration
with Ralph Pucci

By Julia Bikbulatova

Artist, illustrator, sculptor, and a “chronicler of fashion,” Ruben Toledo works at the intersection of art, design, and visual storytelling. His practice spans drawing, painting, sculpture, graphic design, and animation. Toledo has created illustrations for leading international publications, including The New Yorker, Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and The New York Times, and has collaborated with major fashion houses and global brands. For many years, he worked in close creative partnership with his wife, fashion designer Isabel Toledo, and since the 1980s has designed mannequins—and later furniture, textiles, and accessories—for Ralph Pucci.
Ruben Toledo
Photo: Ralph Pucci Gallery
Julia Bikbulatova: You’re an artist, illustrator, sculptor, graphic designer, and animator—and I’m sure I’ve missed a few titles. How do you manage to work across so many different artistic fields?
Ruben Toledo: Film, photography—pretty much everything. Writing as well. For me, it all comes down to communication. Any way I can connect with people—whether through drawing, painting, photography, words, storytelling, or animation—is valid. What matters is reaching people.
You have to penetrate the soul to make an impact, especially today, when we’re surrounded by so much imagery, so much visual information, so much art. In that sense, we’re lucky. But the real question is: how do you touch someone’s soul? That’s the secret. And that’s the secret of being an artist. It’s the will to affect someone—to move them—and, in turn, to be affected as well.

JB: Your style is very recognizable—surreal, theatrical, with a touch of Art Deco. How did it develop? What inspires you?

RT: I don’t really think of myself as having a style. I believe that for every artist, style is a kind of fingerprint—it’s their personality, their soul, their breath. It’s their DNA. Anything else you try to manufacture or imitate feels artificial. To me, an artist has to be one hundred percent truthful. You can’t lie in art.
JB: Looking at your art, it feels like stepping into a fairytale.
RT: I’m sharing my emotions—my inner world. It’s like entering another reality, a kind of fairytale. That feeling is very true to me.
You know my story, right? I met my wife when we were both thirteen. We were married for forty years and grew up side by side, creating together. She worked in fashion, I drew instinctively, and over time we built our own universe—a space of magical realism, poetry, and protection.
I believe that when people fall in love, they create their own universe. The more it grows, the stronger it becomes, and the more others can feel it. My work and Isabel’s fashion ideas were never separate.(Editor’s note: Isabel Toledo was a celebrated fashion designer, widely known for creating Michelle Obama’s inauguration outfit. She passed away in 2019.) Ego only gets in the way, so we created together. We were like an oyster and a pearl.
JB: That kind of connection feels rare.
RT: I don’t think it is. I think we’re just too distracted by other things. But it isn’t rare—we all have that gift. I truly believe that. I try to tell young artists, especially those just starting out, to trust in it. You just have to eliminate the noise—all the other information.
JB: I’ve heard you’re working on a documentary about your career, starting with 1970s New York. Has your creative approach changed since then?
RT: Yes, it’s really about our life—about our love story, and also our love affair with New York City. It begins in 1967 and continues to the present, from those early years to moments like dressing Michelle Obama. It includes the punk and New Wave era, when I was in a band, and our beginnings at Pucci.

JB: Speaking of Ralph Pucci, today many design brands collaborate with artists, turning furniture and everyday objects into art. What do you think about this trend?

RT: I think Ralph Pucci was truly ahead of his time. Our collaboration began in 1988. He was incredibly brave—back then, almost no one was doing this, and cross-disciplinary work like that simply didn’t exist.
We were in New York at the same moment, and he intuitively understood how deeply art, fashion, and design are interconnected—you can’t separate one from the other. He opened his studio to my wife for fashion shows, surrounded himself with artists, and created a space where disciplines naturally overlapped. Entering that world at the time required real courage.
That’s what made Ralph special. He never turned back. Whether he was the very first or not matters less than the fact that he gave opportunities to countless artists. His early parties brought together figures like Andy Warhol, Keith Haring, and Basquiat—everyone was there. He remains a unique figure, and the story of him and his family is extraordinary.

Ruben Toledo at work on a sketch. Photo: Ralph Pucci Gallery
Ruben Toledo and Julia Bikbulatova. Photo: Julia Bikbulatova
Ruben Toledo in conversation with Julia Bikbulatova. Photo: Julia Bikbulatova
Michael Pucci, Juan Pablo Castro, Antoine Bootz, Michael Evert, Kevin Walz, Ralph Pucci and Ruben Toledo. Photo: Palph Pucci Gallery
Feast. Ruben Toledo. Photo: Ralph Pucci Gallery.
Bird Flower. Ruben Toledo. Photo: Ralph Pucci Gallery.
Float. Ruben Toledo. Photo: Ralph Pucci Gallery.
Flaming Flower. Ruben Toledo. Photo: Ralph Pucci Gallery.
Ruben and Isabel Toledo. Photo: Ruben Toledo Archive
Ruben and Isabel Toledo. Photo: Ruben Toledo Archive
Ruben Toledo in his studio. Photo: Ruben Toledo Archive
Ruben Toledo's Drawings. Photo: Ruben Toledo Archive

editorial